October 15
Up by six and on the bus by eight, a journey from Portugal to Spain. Another clear, crisp, fall day. We waved handkerchiefs as we caught our final glimpse of the Apparition Chapel. The freeway reminded me of I-80—rolling foothills with pine, oak, and eucalyptus (more than in California). The trees were stunted because of the rocky soil. Groups of white houses with red roofs reflected the morning sun. People here live together in villages, rarely in private ranches and vacation homes. Occasionally we passed older homes built with rock and stones like the ones that Francisco, Jacinta, and Lucia had. The grass was greener than California’s in October but some stretches could pass for the mountains near Georgetown. The mountain passes had bare rocky peaks like Donner Pass. The freeway was smoother than I-80 or Highway 50. As we neared the summit, a sign read 108 km to Espana. I didn’t see junky cars and trash around houses. I can see why tourists are amazed at the tall trees of California. Few trees are over 30-40 feet here. Miguel and Javier were anxious to be with their families in Salamanca in a few hours.
We entered Spain about 11:30. Viva Espana. Now I can use my poor Spanish. Oaks dot the rolling hills covered with California gold grass. Javier recommended a Salamanca favorite lunch: ham sandwich from the black pigs that we see by the roadside. He reminded us that the rain in Spain falls mainly in the mountains, not in the plains. Then he told us that the stork (the national bird that brings babies from Paris) is protected. Gigantic nests on top of roofs, chimneys, and bell towers are undisturbed.
Stork nest / Salamanca’s Plaza Major
After checking into the Abba Hotel, we took Fr. Frank to lunch at the Plaza Major. We tried the local ham on a club sandwich—too much bread and too little ham. Subway is more generous. From there we wandered around the city taking pictures on our own until it was time for Mass at the Cathedral of Salamanca, a joining of two churches, one Romanesque (12th-13th centuries) and one Gothic (16th Century). Together they form a colossal Church, a testimony to the faith and generosity of the locals:
When I looked for a bathroom, Javier led me into the sacristy where I took a picture of the Latin directions for priests (pre-Vatican II) to vest and then used the ancient facilities.
Mass was in a side chapel followed by a tour of the church and the surrounding area.
Our Lady of Solitude side altar / Vaulted ceilings and dome
The local guide hit all the basics: Plaza Major, Palacio de Monterrey, Catedral Nueva, Patio de Escuelas Menores, and Salamanca University.
Palacio de Monterrey / Salamanca University
I also took pictures of shells (related to the shells found near the body of St James, symbols used to point the way for pilgrims to Santiago of Campastella)
golden side altars, an astronaut in relief sculpture on the side of a renovated Cathedral wall, and the local medical students staggering around town celebrating a special holiday:
Dinner at 8:30 was beyond four star treatment. The hotel was trying to get Javier to book the hotel’s restaurant next year rather than visiting nearby restaurants. The result was 3-4 appetizers, exquisite service, abundant wine, juicy tenderloin beef, a classy desert, and coffee (usually an extra charge). We definitely were on a European schedule: late dinner, checking e-mail at 11:30, getting up around 8:30.
Salamanca was lots of fun. If only we had time to tour it some more.
